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TIG Welding Settings Chart.

Pick your material and thickness below for tungsten type/size, amperage, and gas - plus when to switch on pulse. Works for mild steel, stainless, and aluminum.

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Starting points for DC on steel/stainless and AC on aluminum, standard tungsten ground to a point. Always fine-tune on scrap - your machine, polarity, and cup size all shift these numbers.

Get a clean weld.

1

Pick polarity by material

DCEN (electrode negative) for steel and stainless - it puts most of the heat into the workpiece. AC for aluminum and magnesium - it breaks up the oxide layer on every cycle so the arc doesn't wander.

2

Match tungsten to the job

Thoriated (red) or lanthanated (gold) for DC steel and stainless work. Pure (green) or zirconiated (white/brown) for AC aluminum on transformer machines - though lanthanated also runs fine on modern AC inverters.

3

Use pulse on thin material

Pulse cycles between a high peak amperage and a lower background amperage, letting the puddle cool between pulses. That cuts heat input and warping - especially useful on thin stainless and aluminum.

4

A foot pedal gives you live control

Most welders prefer a foot pedal over fixed amperage because you can taper down at the end of a weld or react to a changing gap in real time, without stopping to adjust the machine.

Pulse settings.
Built in.

The app's full TIG settings tool includes pulse frequency and percentage recommendations for thin stainless, aluminum, and titanium - not just amperage. It works offline, so it's there when you're under a hood with no signal.

TIG settings with pulse for thin stainless, aluminum, and titanium
Every material and thickness combination tracked
Standard ↔ metric toggle on every screen

Common questions.

Pure tungsten (green tip) or zirconiated tungsten (white/brown tip) on AC current is the traditional choice for aluminum, though many welders now run lanthanated (gold) tungsten on AC inverters with good results.
A foot pedal lets you adjust amperage in real time while welding, which is especially useful on thin material and tapering the finish of a weld. It's not strictly required - a fingertip control or fixed amperage works too - but most welders find a pedal faster to react with.
Pulse helps most on thin stainless and aluminum, where it reduces heat input and warping by cycling between a high peak amperage and a lower background amperage, giving the puddle time to cool between pulses.