E6010, E6011, E7018, and more - amperage range by rod size, polarity, and what each electrode is actually good for on the shop floor or pipe yard.
| Electrode | Polarity | 1/8" Amps | 5/32" Amps | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
E6010 Cellulosic |
DC+ | 75-110A | 110-150A | Deep penetration. Cuts through rust, paint, mill scale. Pipe root passes. |
E6011 Cellulosic |
AC / DC+ | 75-110A | 110-150A | Like 6010 but runs on AC too - good general-purpose dirty-steel rod. |
E6013 Rutile |
AC / DC± | 70-100A | 100-130A | Smooth arc, easy to run, less penetration. Good for thin metal and beginners. |
E7018 Low-Hydrogen |
AC / DC+ | 90-130A | 130-170A | Smooth, low-spatter, higher strength. Needs cleaner metal. Structural & code work. |
E7024 High-Iron Rutile |
AC / DC+ | 110-150A | 150-200A | Drag rod, high deposition. Flat position only. Fast fill on thick steel. |
Dirty, rusty, or painted steel calls for a cellulosic rod like 6010 or 6011 that digs through contamination. Clean structural steel is where low-hydrogen 7018 shines.
6010 is DC electrode positive only. 6011 and 7018 run on AC or DC+. Running the wrong polarity gives you a weak, unstable, or impossible-to-strike arc.
Pick the middle of the amperage range for your rod diameter, strike an arc on scrap, and adjust up if the rod sticks or down if you're blowing through.
Worn or undersized stick welder leads cause voltage drop, which shows up as a weak, sputtering arc even with the right amperage dialed in. Check connections and cable condition before chasing settings.
The app's Stick settings tool covers amperage by material and thickness, not just rod size - plus the full reference chart library for tap drills, welding positions, and lens tint, all working offline.